Tuesday, April 10, 2007

Alojamientos--only the best


We´ve reached about the halfway point of our trip, and it´s a time of change for us. I think the fast paced travel is over, and we´re going to start spending a bit more time in some selected cities. The main goal after leaving Los Glaciares National Park was to make our way north to meet Kellen´s parents. Thankfully, that meant getting off track of everyone else, and passing some time in Chile. We travelled a bit on the infamous Ruta 40, Argentina´s unpaved Patagonian highway (Patagonia is brown when you can´t see the Andes, a more dusty and consistent brown than either Nevada or Colorado), then managed to finagle some charming accommodations for the trip:




I wouldn´t consider Mo or I particularly choosey when it comes to accomodations, but squishy second-floor bathroom floors (solved at one place by a piece of plywood infront of the sink), low doorways that seem to have their sights set on my skull, and hospedaje owners that don´t seem to remember that they´re running hotels leave a little bit to be desired. Overall, the free camping north of El Chalten with its array of semi-permanent tarp stuctures, was the finest lodging we had for a while, followed by the backyard camping we enjoyed in Coyhaique. Featured above are 1. Bus 2. El Campamento Municipal in Los Antigous, AR, complete with a white stucco fireplace and hot showers, and near a panaderia with the best Alfajores we´ve had yet! 3. Hospedaje Don Luis en Chilo Chico, CL. (note the concrete doorway behind the tree, classy touch!) 4. Hospedaje Las Piedras del Indio in Coyhaique... think what you will 5. The Coyhaique ¨campground¨ with makeshift greatroom and kitchen. We spent two nights here in celebration of the complete shutting down of town for three days for the Easter Holiday. There was, however, a cool three legged dog -the best animals always have three legs, not four- and with no way of moving any further north, we cooked a fine curry for Easter dinner.

In Puerto Montt we sprung for 4 nights at a really comfortable room in a hostel with friendly travelers, friendly owners, and homemade jam. So far we´ve enjoyed two days with Kellen´s folks, a day checkingout the artisan fair and fish market in Puerto Montt, and a day crossing the lakes from Puerto Montt to Bariloche, Argentina. They managed to bring sunshine with them, so we had amazing views of the Andes from the boats yesterday, and hope for more days of sunshine ahead as we spend some time in the Bariloche area.

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